Amadeus
Posted on October 23, 2010 by Scott in mixed climbing
Amadeus is a great early-season route that usually melts out after the first chinook. It rarely forms as an ice route, but comes in as a mixed climb every year. A direct start straight up to the hanging dagger has been climbed on very bad gear. The regular mixed variation traverses in from the right and is fairly well-protected.
STATS
Grade: III 5.9 (M5) WI4, 70m
First ascent: Unknown
THE TRAILHEAD
From Canmore, head west on the Trans-Canada for approximately 28km. Take exit #118, heading south on Highway 40 (also called Kananaskis Trail). After approximately 11km, you will pass the Barrier Lake Visitor Center on your right-hand side. Drive another 4.7km and park on the east side of the highway. You should be able to see the route from here.
THE APPROACH
A good summer trail heads up through the woods and into a drainage, followed by steep, compact scree to the base of the route. Approximately one hour.
GEAR
Take a “standard mixed rack”: a half-dozen pitons, including knifeblades, lost arrows and angles; a set of nuts; TCUs and cams to 3″; smaller tri-cams; ice hook; ice screws; long slings.
Raphael Slawinski on Amadeus during the dark ages of 3-ply Goretex and Foot Fangs
THE ROUTE
P1: 5.9 (M5) WI4, 30m. From a rock belay (one bolt and cams) high on the right side below a rock chimney, climb a shallow rock groove out left for a few meters, then traverse left into a corner. Get some good gear before belly-flopping onto the water-polished slab. Grovel up onto your knees and eventually your feet, then traverse left again to the ice (run out). Climb the ice to a sheltered belay on the left of the upper pillar.
P2: WI4, 40m. Climb ice to the top.
THE DESCENT
Make a 60m, double-rope rappel to the ground.
