Beautiful Century
Posted on October 19, 2010 by Scott in rock climbing
A fabulous bolted moderate route on good rock in a great setting.
STATS
Grade: 5.10a, 230m
First ascent: Brian Spear, Jeff Storck; Spring 2006
TRAILHEAD
From Canmore, drive east along the 1A. Pass through Exshaw and look for a sign for the Class 4 landfill as you pass by Goat Mountain, just as Yamnuska comes into view. Park at the parking lot across from the Class 4 landfill on the south side of the road.
APPROACH
Cross the road and just before the gates to the fill, head right on a dirt walking trail that borders the landfill. Follow this trail a ways along the border of the landfill, first north, and then as it bends left and continues to follow the fence. You will now pass a couple larger double track trails that break off North from the trail you are on. Take the second larger trail on the right, and follow it until another smaller trail branches off of it on the right.
At this point you are walking away from the landfill, and skirting beside Nanny Goat (the large rock buttress to your left). You are still walking in the trees and facing Yamnuska as you hike beside Nanny Goat. As you near a large gully feature in Nanny Goat that has a waterfall in it, look for a small cairned trail that breaks left towards the drainage. Follow this trail as it wanders up the trees and into the scree beside the waterfall.
The trail takes you up to the rock buttress where you make a hard left for 20 meters leading you to the base of the route. Spot the first bolt on slabs to your right leading to a right facing corner.
GEAR
12 draws (14 if you are linking pitches) and anchor slings, 60m rope. (70m rope is ideal.) Helmet recommended.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
P1: 30m 5.8 (6 bolts). Tricky slab climbing on good rock to a hanging stance. Follow a couple bolts that lead to a small roof. Pull the roof and wander up and between bolts on slab to the anchor. Wandering slightly between bolts leads to easier climbing then staying directly in line with them.
P2: 25m 5.8 (5 bolts). A fun right-facing corner offering incut holds and plenty of stemming potential to a comfy ledge belay. Be careful exiting the corner onto the ledge as there is still some rockfall potential here.
P3: 40m 5.10a (9 bolts and one piton). Cruxy moves past the first couple bolts heading right from the belay leads to consistent climbing above. Past the crux, the climbing heads slightly left then right to an anchor in a small bay. Be warned that one could head left to a stray bolt on a ledge about 30 meters into the pitch. Clipping this could either lead you in the wrong direction or give you a ton of rope drag if you then headed back right to the next bolt.
P4: 30m 5.7 (6 bolts). A bit tricky for the grade, more face and slab climbing leads to a ledge and belay on the left. Using this belay will prevent potential rock fall on your second versus continuing to the next belay.
P5: 15m. 3rd class move up to another belay directly above.
P6: 40m 5.9 (10 bolts). Fun pockets and edges on good rock lead out left from the belay on steeper rock to a small bulge. Pulling the bulge gives it the grade. Continue straight up to a belay on a small ledge under an overhang.
P7: 25m 5.8 (7 bolts). Head out right from the anchor to overcome the roof. Continue up right then left and then right again on face and slab climbing to a hanging belay.
P8: 25m 5.9 (5 bolts and one piton). Continue up to a right-facing corner, head out right and onto a ledge. Layback the final crack to the anchor on a ledge above a small roof.
DESCENT
Either top out and descend as for other Nanny Goat routes — walk left and find faint trails that head down to a drainage between Nanny Goat and Kid Goat. Aa short steeper step can be avoided by a 20m rappel — or rappel the route. A single 60m rope will work but a 70m is ideal.
NOTE
There are 2 other sport routes to the right of Beautiful Century that offer climbing from 5.10 to 5.11 and are 4 pitches long. This can be a good back up plan if the route is busy.
