Black Feather Canyon
Posted on October 22, 2010 by Scott in rock climbing
This narrow rocky canyon, which is only 3 meters wide at its narrowest point, is one of many small drainages that feed the Cascade River, and subsequently Lake Minnewanka. The approach is a pleasant walk that follows a flat and wide path along Lake Minnewanka, then upstream, along the Cascade River. It’s popular with hikers, sight-seeing tourists and mountain bikers alike.
The climbing is on slabby to slightly overhanging walls comprised of solid grey limestone, that has been scrubbed and cleaned over the millennium and are now quite clean of loose rock. Much of the climbing is in the 5.10 to low 5.12 range with both a sunny side and a shady side allowing even the most fickle climber in the group to have a great day. Black Feather Canyon is also home to one of the most bizarrely featured patches of rock — dubbed “The Brain” — found anywhere in the Bow Valley and lucky for us there a few excellent routes climbing right through it.
CONDITIONS
The climbing season in Black Feather Canyon ranges from late spring to early fall, with slightly warmer temps being desirable because of the chilly nature of the narrow canyon. Seepage isn’t usually a problem for most of the routes in the canyon, although the routes right around Mind Bender, (11d) will seep early in the season and after significant rainfall. As well the canyon doesn’t offer much in the way of shelter from the rain and you might want to head elsewhere if rain is in the forecast.
The creek runnig through Black Feather Canyon is usually no more than a small trickle at best, making it easy to navigate most of the time. During the spring melt off, and after heavy rainfall though it can turn into a raging torrent. Because of the narrowness of the canyon, it may be impossible to navigate when it’s in that state.
TRAILHEAD
From Canmore, head west on the Trans Canada Highway taking the 1st exit for Banff/Lake Minnewanka. From the exit, take a right and follow the signs along Minnewanka Loop to Lake Minnewanka. Park in the parking lot.
APPROACH
Walk towards the lake, following the paved road (closed to traffic) along the lake past a boat dock on the right. Follow this paved road all the way to its end. From the end of the paved road, follow a well-worn dirt trail above the lakes edge to a large bridge crossing the Cascade River. Cross the bridge and follow the trail left to a signed fork in the trail. (About 5 min from the bridge).
Follow along the left fork which follows the Cascade River upstream. After about 12 minutes from the signed fork, you will come to an uphill in the trail, look to your left across the Cascade River for the following landmark: You should see a large vertical black wall with a couple of big yellow/white streaks on it. From here, the climber’s trail branches off the right side of the main trail. After a minute on the climbers trail, you will drop into the creekbed and the mouth of Black Feather Canyon. About 30 meters up the narrow canyon you will come to Unknown #1, a 5.10b on the left.
THE AREA
The Entrance Sector includes the Bottle Neck, Rainbow Wall, and Yankee Wall. Each area has only a few routes, which are usually passed by on the way to the more popular Punk Wall and Mind Games Wall located at the end of the canyon. This isn’t to say that their not good routes; they just don’t compare to the Punk Wall and the Mind Games Wall.
The Bottle Neck (5.9 – 5.10) is the first area encountered and begins once you enter the narrow canyon. This narrow section of canyon offers only a handful of routes, but cooler temperatures if you find it’s getting too warm further up canyon. All the routes are located on the left side of the canyon.
Next is Rainbow Wall (two projects, one 12c), located on the left side of the creek bed just past the end of the Bottle Neck. A beautifully striped wall with only a couple of routes for now, but bound to see some more development in the future. Sees filtered sun mid day.
For Yankee Wall (5.8 – 5.10), continue upstream from Rainbow Wall for 5 minutes to a short slabby wall in a corner on the left side of the creek.
Marc Bourdon on Carnal Prayer Mat (12b)
© Derek Galloway
The main sector holds both the Punk Wall and the Mind Games Wall as well as the Exit Wall. This is the main destination for most climbers in the canyon, and boasts a great collection of quality routes ranging from 5.10 to 5.12d. The main sector allows you to seek out either the sun or shade by merely changing sides of the canyon, so not having good conditions won’t be on the excuse list here.
To get there, continue past the Yankee Wall for 5 minutes until the canyon widens. This wide section of the canyon comprises Punk Wall on the left, Mind Games Wall on the right, and Exit Wall is located at the end behind a stand of trees on a small slope where the creek takes a hard left.
