Coire Dubh Integral
Posted on December 5, 2010 by Scott in mixed climbing, mountaineering
Located on Goat Mountain, Coire Dubh is a rarely done 5.4 summer rock climb that becomes an excellent route in winter that should not be missed by aspiring mixed climbers. A classic multi-pitch adventure that even tops out on the summit of Loder Peak for the full mountain experience. The constant wind and chinooks clear most of the white stuff off, keeping avalanche hazard fairly low, but always be on the lookout for wind slab. It is best to keep clear of the route after a big dump when the hazard will be at its worst and the rock climbing will feel more desperate.
STATS
Grade: III 5.7 WI3, 550m
First ascent: Unknown
THE TRAILHEAD
From Canmore, head east on Highway 1A toward Exshaw. Park in a large pull-out on the south side of the highway, 4.2 km east of the Exshaw bridge (3.3km west of the Seebe turn off at the 1A/1X intersection).
THE APPROACH
Cross the road and pick up a trail that skirts the right, outside edge of the dump. Do not trespass on the landfill property; there’s an established trail around its right-hand edge. Past the dump, pick whichever trail leads through open forest toward to the creekbed that descends from the second major drainage on Goat Mountain. The first ice pitch will be obvious in the gully.
Climber on the first pitch of Coire Dubh
© Sarah Hueniken
THE ROUTE
The first pitch is WI3, then it kicks back and rambles up a gully, opening up into an amphitheater. At this point, there are two options: 1) On the left, a thin ice groove with rock moves to finish (rarely enough ice); or 2) On the right, a left-facing pure rock corner with a bolt at the start to protect the crux moves.
Above these obstacles, continue up on scree and third class scrambling to a groove/gully on the right that is the only easy weakness in the wall above. Great pockets and thin ice ascend through this feature, depositing you below more scree and a variety of choices to finish.
The main two variations are either straight up the snowy 5.6 groove/corner or the big left-facing dihedral out left (5.7). Both offer fun climbing with good protection.
THE DESCENT
Hike south over the top of Loder Peak and follow the ridge all the way down to the 1A. Walk back east along the highway to your car.
