East Ridge of Lady Macdonald
Posted on October 20, 2010 by Scott in mountaineering
The east ridge of Lady Macdonald is a moderate alpine rock climb found right above Canmore. It’s a fun day out with great views of the valley. Bring a light rack and a rope. With a few pitches of moderate rock climbing (5.5/5.6), the majority of this route follows an exposed ridgeline until it joins the last section of the scramble route. Expect an 8-12 hour day depending on your climbing and route-finding ability.
STATS
Grade: 5.6, 1,300m
First ascent: Unknown
TRAILHEAD
Park at the Cougar Creek parking lot on the north side of Canmore across from the Iron Goat restaurant.
APPROACH
This is the hardest part of the climb! Finding the correct start has been a real frustration for many, although many have also found alternate ways to get to the same crux pitch that joins the exposed ridgeline.
Hike up the creek, crossing the creek numerous times and passing many of the sport climbing areas in Cougar Creek. About an hour into the hike, the creek makes a sharp bend to the right and then to the left again. At this point there will be a large scree path on the right side of the creek. On the left side of the canyon, there should be a faint trail that starts steeply up towards Lady Mac. This is your trail. (If you hike as far as the sport climbing crag called Canadian Forks, you’ve gone too far.)
Do your best to stay on the trail and roughly on the small ridge that it follows. It should not involve anything harder then a couple easy 3rd class rock steps. After much elevation gain, you will find yourself on some scree that is just to the right of the faint ridge you were hiking up. Take this to the top and soon you will find yourself near the start of the route.
ROUTE
Here, you’ll find a treed area that has you facing towards the ridge you are trying to get on. The first 40 meters is almost 4th class, some rock moves between a bunch of trees. At the top of the 4th class section, head to the left up a bit and then back down as you are walking right beside the cliff now with a drop off below you. Near the end of this small ledge is the first pitch.
It is hard to see, but there is an old piton about 10 feet up on this pitch, a bit to the left of where you start to climb. If you can’t find the piton, head up on the easiest terrain to the trees.
P1: Easy 5th class. Climb up to the pin, then move right and up loose and quite unprotectable rock to the trees. Belay on the highest and largest tree.
P2: 5.4. Head straight up from the tree. Fixed pitons and gear will protect the left-facing crack on great fossilized rock. Take this corner system to the end and traverse around to the right (piton). Keep traversing to another left facing corner. Take this to the top to another belay tree. Watch for rope drag and be careful of rock fall.
Continue hiking to the ridge from here. Follow a trail with cairns that will lead you after 5-10 minutes of walking to the crux pitch.
P3: 5.5/5.6. Go straight up to the nice #1 size crack. Good protection takes you directly up to a two bolt belay (25m).
Continue hiking up to the ridge proper. Here you will find an endless ridge traverse on exposed limestone. There used to be a few scattered bolts in this area, but they have been removed, so bring gear for this and protect as necessary. At one point, the ridge hits another short steep buttress. It is easier here to traverse to the right to avoid the harder climbing and do a short grassy pitch to the ledge above and then traverse back to the left to get back on the ridge.
After much ridge travel you will hit the final pitch that joins you to the hiking trail. Though it looks imposing from a distance it is quite easy. Hike right over to the upper rock buttress of the ridge you have been traveling on.
P4: 5.4 Climb up and left to the summit. There will be a bolt at the top in the scree to add in a belay for your second.
Continue along the ridge on the “scrambling” trail. Expect to find one more exposed ridge section that takes you to the true summit.
THE DESCENT
From the heli-pad, follow the hiking trail all the way back to your car for approximately one hour.
