Grassi Lakes
Posted on September 26, 2010 by Scott in rock climbing
Grassi Lakes offers climbing on steep, pocketed rock through a wide range of grades. Many of the routes are designed to be stick-clipped. Note that there is rockfall hazard at all the north side cliffs from careless tourists and also from bighorn sheep. The extensive trail work and belay platforms are examples of TABVAR‘s environmental program.
STATS
Grade range: 5.6 to 5.13, mostly in the 5.10 to 5.12 range.
TRAILHEAD
Drive up the Spray Lakes Road from Canmore — or, when approaching from the east, take Three Sisters Drive to the Spray Lakes Road — to the top of the hill (about 6.5km from downtown). Park at Whiteman’s Pond (same as for Ha Ling Peak). Please obey the “No Parking” signs where posted.
APPROACH
From the parking area, walk along Spray Lakes Road back toward Canmore. Just before the road turns to the left to head down to Canmore, you’ll see a green gate, blocking access to the top of the dam. On the left-hand side of the gate, the trail starts down to the climbing area. Descend at the edge of the dam into a picturesque gorge.
AREA
Within a couple of minutes from the dam, you will pass under a steep wall on your left. This is the Ghetto (5.11 to 5.12). Another minute or so will take you down past the Rectory (5.12)and a to a small, flat area with cliffs on both sides. This is the Swamp Buttress (5.10).
Continue another minute or so through a tumbled mass of boulders to reach the White Imperialist Area (5.10 to 5.12) beside the trail on your left. Hermit Wall (5.10 to 5.11) is the large north-facing cliff across the valley.
Another five minutes down the trail will take you to the top of a steep scree slope. The slope is roped off to prevent erosion. Please stick to the trail. No shortcuts, please.
A climber enjoying the jugs of Meathooks wall. © Gery Unterasinger
On the right is Gardener’s Wall (5.8 to 5.10), a mostly vertical, pocketed cliff that features several, closely-bolted routes, excellent for beginning leaders. On the left is the Golf Course (5.6 to 5.8), a low-angled, popular slab, excellent for kids and beginners. Just below the Golf Course, the wall steepens into the Meathooks (5.11 to 5.12) area, which has several steep, sharp, chossy classics.
The final area, Graceland (5.10 to 5.11), is on the north side of the lake, past the Meathooks wall.
OTHER ACCESS: This route description assumes that TransAlta Utilities, the landowner, will continue to allow access from the dam. If not, a signed hiking trail can be used to access Grassi Lakes from below. Look for a turnoff where the pavement ends on the drive up, just beyond the Canmore Nordic Centre.
WILDLIFE: Some years, an owl nests in a cave just left of the Graceland area (down by the lake). Alberta Environment may post signage of a restricted area during nesting season. The climbs involved are: You Ain’t Nothing But a Hang Dog, Memphis and Graceland. Please stay off these climbs during the restricted period to avoid disturbing the owls. Failure to respect the Alberta Environment request could lead to permanent closure of this area of the cliff (and make climbers look bad in the eyes of the public.)
