Louise Falls
Posted on November 6, 2010 by Scott in ice climbing
Louise Falls is the quintessential WI5 ice climb of the Canadian Rockies. Sometimes it is fat, hooked out and WI4, other times a challenging WI6. In most years, the first pitch is WI 3/4, the second pitch WI5 and the final pitch WI4.
STATS
Grade: WI5, 110m
First ascent: Jack Firth, Eckhard Grassman, Tony Mould, Peter Zvengrowski; March 1974.
TRAILHEAD
From the townsite of Lake Louise, follow signs driving up the hill towards the Chateau Lake Louise. Park in the public parking lot.To get to the trail, start walking toward the chateau.
APPROACH
From the chateau, walk around the northwest side of the lake on a wide trail. Louise Falls is about a 30-minute walk on the far side of the lake. Be careful as you hike up toward the climb. Falling ice is a hazard, especially if there are any climbers above you.
ROUTE
There are many variations to Louise Falls on both the left and right sides of the route. Often the decision where to climb is made based on if there are other climbers above or any hanging daggers adjacent to the top of the pillar. Choose a line that is well away from any falling ice potential. If the route is too busy for a safe line, it’s best to come back another day.
A climber seconding the crux pitch of Louise Falls
If you have the choice, the line of least resistances tends to be:
P1: Start on the right-hand side and climb a short pitch to just under a rock roof.
P2: Traverse left to pass the roof and then back right up a low angle groove. Belay in a cave behind the main pillar.
P3: Climb the crux pillar.
P4: Finish the last tier and belay in the trees. This last pitch can also be combined with the crux.
DESCENT
From the trees at the top of the route, follow a trail to climber’s right. Crampons are useful while scrambling down the steeper sections. Make sure you scramble far enough right to avoid the cliff bands below. If you get cliffed out, go back up and continue further to climber’s right. No rappels are required.
