Mt. Temple
Posted on October 17, 2010 by Scott in scrambling
Mt. Temple is the prominent triangular-shaped peak capped with ice and snow that towers above the hamlet of Lake Louise. While there are technical routes up the main face, a moderate scramble is hidden from view on the southwest side of the mountain.
Mt. Temple is popular because it is one of the highest peaks in the Lake Louise area. This brochure is a result of the mountain’s popularity and the number of accidents that have occurred here in the past. This brochure provides detailed route information and important safety tips, and helps develop skills that can also be used on other climbs in the Rockies.
Click here to download the Mt. Temple scrambler’s guide, complete with photos of the route, what to take with you and important emergency information. Print it off and take it with you.
This route description is aimed at strong hikers and scramblers. Mt. Temple is not a good choice for a first-time scramble ascent.
Summit: 3,543 m (11,621 ft.)
Elevation gain: 1,690 m (5,543 ft.)
Round-trip distance: 16 km
Average round-trip time: 7 – 12 hours
THE TRAILHEAD
The trailhead for Mt. Temple is located at Moraine Lake, near the Village of Lake Louise. Walk along the northwest shore of Moraine Lake past the lodge and take the trail leading up to Larch Valley. Then follow the route description illustrated on the other side of the Mount Temple scrambler’s guide.
ROUTE DESCRIPTION
The route description to the summit of Mt. Temple begins at the Moraine Lake parking lot. The following description is keyed to the numbers on the photos. Round trip time is 7-12 hours.
1. Moraine Lake to Larch Valley
Follow the lakeshore trail, past the Moraine Lodge (1,888 m), for 35 m to the trail junction for Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass. Thirteen gentle switchbacks lead up 352 m through 2.5 km of forest to another trail junction near a bench. Take the right (north) fork towards Larch Valley/Sentinel Pass/Paradise Valley (the left fork leads to Eiffel Lake).
2. Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass
As Sentinel Pass (2,611 m) comes into view, take time to look at the route and conditions from a distance. If there is any snow on the upper mountain, ice axes and crampons are likely required; this may mean turning around. Ascend the switchbacks to Sentinel Pass between Pinnacle and Mt. Temple. This is a good spot to put on helmets.
3. Up the scree from Sentinel Pass (2,611 m)
A worn scree path dotted with cairns leads up and just right of the ridge. To avoid loose scree and rockfall from parties above, stay to the left of the broad gully where the footing is more secure. At the top of the gully, a long diagonal path leads up and to the right, past a yellow rock wall and below two large gullies to the first grey rock band. Two prominent scree paths should be visible below—an important landmark.
The upper ridge of Mt. Temple
(Click to enlarge)
4. First grey rock band
Climb the left side of the shallow gully; look for a cairn marking the ascent line. Don’t be lured by the beaten path that leads away on a big traverse to the right, passing the two scree paths below, to where the cliff band becomes more difficult to ascend. Scramble up a series of rock steps. Paths and cairns lead up through the grey/black steps towards the second grey rock band. Look back and landmark the correct descent so you are not lured to the wrong feature when you descend.
5. Second grey rock band (considered the crux of the route)
Traverse under two gullies closest to the ridge and climb two steep blocky steps just to the right of the second gully. Both the five- and three-metre steps involve some exposed climbing. Consider the security ofa rope and solid belay here, especially on the way down. Be careful at the start, as there are some polished holds. It’s not recommended to follow the beaten paths up the gully, as they expose climbers to the large bowls above where both natural and human-triggered rockfall may occur. After the step, follow the cairned path zigzagging over the gravel–covered rock slabs/steps (take extra caution here during the descent), then angle left, back to the ridge to find the break in the next band of light brown rock. Look back —note the way to the step for the descent.
6. Light brown rock step
Follow the cairned trail to the ridge crest and ascend the rock steps just right of the ridge. Make every attempt to stay to the side of the gully, especially if there are people above. Gentle rock steps lead left out of the light brown rock onto black scree. Follow cairns and switchbacks slightly right through dark rock to regain the ridge. The summit ridge comes into view.
7. The Summit
Follow the switch-backing trail in the scree towards the summit. CAUTION – if snow remains on the upper mountain, expect to have unstable cornices on the ridgeline on the climber’s right. Be sure to stay on the rock well back from the edge. This hazard can be especially difficult to avoid in poor visibility and fresh snow. Also, in early season this ridge can be a mix of snow and ice that requires crampons and an ice axe to negotiate. Check conditions before starting and be prepared to turn back if necessary.
THE DESCENT
Descend by the same route you climbed. Retrace your steps. No shortcuts!
Be very careful on the descent not to dislodge rocks, which can injure people below. Other gullies or routes may look inviting (there may even be cairns!) when looking down from above, but any other route will lead to larger cliffs or looser rock.
After descending the last rock band, it may look tempting and even shorter to plunge down one of the two scree paths leading well away from the ridge into the middle of the amphitheatre. On a busy day, these routes leave scramblers exposed to rockfall from above. There have been several rescues of people hit by rocks in the lower section of this route.
You’ve climbed Mt. Temple! If you are interested in more scrambling at this level, see similar brochures by Parks Canada for Mount Rundle and Cascade Mountain near Banff. If you have climbed these and want more, then it’s time to select a route from the guidebook Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies, join the Alpine Club of Canada, hire a certified mountain guide, or take a rock climbing or mountaineering course. Good luck!
