The Maul
Posted on November 8, 2010 by Scott in mixed climbing, mountaineering
The Wedge is the prominent wedge-shaped peak on the east side of Highway 40 directly across from Mt. Kidd. Like Mt. Lorette, The Wedge is small by Rockies standards and an unlikely candidate for a recommended alpine route. However, the ease of access and excellent mixed climbing make it worthy of consideration.
The triangular north face is split by two obvious gullies. Klaatu Verata Nicto (II M6, Robert Rogoz and Raphael Slawinski, November 2005) takes the shorter left-hand gash, while The Maul takes the longer right-hand one.
The Maul is the harder and better of the two routes, and is described here. It is an excellent mini-alpine winter route. The climbing is on very thin ice or mixed; most if not all of the protection is from the rock.
STATS
Grade: III M7
First ascent: Will Gadd, Raphael Slawinski; November 2005.
Map: 82 J/14 Spray Lakes Reservoir.
Time: 9-13 hours round trip.
Elevation gain: 1100 m from the car, 300 m on the route. Summit is at 2,665m
Gear: Take crampons and a pair of ice tools each. For protection, take a standard rock rack including pitons, and throw in a couple of short screws and/or ice hooks.
Season: Whenever the route is frozen together, usually from November to March. The route will have more ice and the approach less snow earlier in the season.
TRAILHEAD
From Canmore, head east on the Trans-Canada Highway, exiting south into Kananaskis Country via Highway 40. Park 30km south of the Trans-Canada Highway at Wedge Pond.
APPROACH
Hike up the scramblers’ trail. The trail initially parallels the creek draining the north face on its left (north) side before gaining the rounded ridge on the left. It is best to walk up this ridge all the way to the base of the mountain, then traverse below the north face to the route. Beware of potential avalanche hazard. 2-3 hours.
© Raphael Slawinski Collection
ROUTE
Climb the gash in its entirety to the summit ridge in about 6 ropelengths. The crux is a right-facing corner with a smooth right wall halfway up, but the opening pitches and the exit chimney are not devoid of interest. 5-8 hours.
© Raphael Slawinski Collection
DESCENT
The descent is the Normal Route in reverse. Walk down the edge of the north face on scree and snow, moving out onto the north-east flank near the bottom, and contouring back around to rejoin the approach trail. 1.5-2 hours.
